Tie-Dye is a primitive dyeing technique found in many parts of the world. In this technique, fabric is tied, twisted, or sewn before dying, resulting in dye-resistant sections. These bound areas retain their natural color, creating unique tie-dye patterns.



ITAJIME : Clamp Resist Dyeing


In Itajime, fabric is tightly compressed between wooden boards. Due to the high pressure, dye-resistant areas are created, which then create patterns after dyeing. From bold patterns to geometrical repetitions, many forms of expression are possible based on the method of folding the fabric.






In Roketsu-zome (Japanese), or Batik, wax is heated and melted, then applied to fabric by brush or other means to create dye-resistant areas. After dyeing, hot water is poured over the fabric, melting the wax and revealing the design. In our studio we primarily use a brush for application, but have other various tools as well, such as the traditional Indonesian Batik tool, the Canting.

蝋(ロウ)を熱で溶かし、生地に筆などの道具で描いて防染する技法です。染色後に熱湯で蝋を洗い流すと、描いた絵が浮かび上がります。道具としては、スタジオでは筆を主に使用していますが、他にもチャンティン (インドネシアの伝統的な道具)なども備えています。

KATA-ZOME : Stencil Dyeing



Using a stencil, rice glue (created from sweet rice flour and rice bran) is set over the fabric and dried. Then, multiple applications of dye are applied carefully to ensure the rice glue does not lose form. After dyeing, the glue is washed off and the stenciled pattern is revealed. At BUAISOU, both western stencil methods and traditional Japanese Shibugami (paper plastered with Persimmon tannin) stenciling are used.



BASSEN : Discharge Dyeing


A silk screen or stencil is placed over dyed fabric and a glue containing chlorine is applied. This results in the screened areas losing their color, revealing the design. By using a silk screen, this technique can create very thin patterns useful for making small logos and intricate designs.



DAN-ZOME : Gradation Dyeing



By adjusting the time a piece is left in dye or by changing the number of dye applications, various levels of color concentration can be achieved in a single piece of fabric. This method can be used to create a color gradation from white to deep indigo.



BETA-ZOME : Plane Dyeing



A method of dyeing that does not include any kind of pattern application. Plane Dyeing can produce a multitude of results based on different dyes, dye oxidation methods, materials, sizes and shapes, handling techniques while fabric is submerged in dye, and the technique used to raise fabric out of dye. Many of BUAISOU’s products are made using this method.



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