TECHNIQUES

SHIBORI-ZOME : Tie-Dyeing

絞り染め

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Tie-Dye is a primitive dyeing technique found in many parts of the world. In this technique, fabric is tied, twisted, or sewn before dying, resulting in dye-resistant sections. These bound areas retain their natural color, creating unique tie-dye patterns.

 

染色技法の中で、世界各地で行われている原始的な技法です。生地を紐で縛ったり、結んだり、縫ったりしてから染めると、絞った部分が染まらずに模様となる技法です。

ITAJIME : Clamp Resist Dyeing

板締め
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In Itajime, fabric is tightly compressed between wooden boards. Due to the high pressure, dye-resistant areas are created, which then create patterns after dyeing. From bold patterns to geometrical repetitions, many forms of expression are possible based on the method of folding the fabric.

 

折りたたんだ生地を板の間に挟んで強く締め、その圧力によって防染して模様を作り出す技法です。大胆な柄や連続した幾何学模様など、折りたたみ方で様々な表現ができます。

ROKETSU-ZOME : Batik

ろうけつ染め

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In Roketsu-zome (Japanese), or Batik, wax is heated and melted, then applied to fabric by brush or other means to create dye-resistant areas. After dyeing, hot water is poured over the fabric, melting the wax and revealing the design. In our studio we primarily use a brush for application, but have other various tools as well, such as the traditional Indonesian Batik tool, the Canting.

蝋(ロウ)を熱で溶かし、生地に筆などの道具で描いて防染する技法です。染色後に熱湯で蝋を洗い流すと、描いた絵が浮かび上がります。道具としては、スタジオでは筆を主に使用していますが、他にもチャンティン (インドネシアの伝統的な道具)なども備えています。

KATA-ZOME : Stencil Dyeing

型染め

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Using a stencil, rice glue (created from sweet rice flour and rice bran) is set over the fabric and dried. Then, multiple applications of dye are applied carefully to ensure the rice glue does not lose form. After dyeing, the glue is washed off and the stenciled pattern is revealed. At BUAISOU, both western stencil methods and traditional Japanese Shibugami (paper plastered with Persimmon tannin) stenciling are used.

 

型紙を使って布の上に型糊(餅粉と米糠が原料)を置き、乾燥、糊が溶けないように染め重ね、その後に水洗いで糊を落として模様を表す技法です。BUAISOUでは洋型紙と渋紙を使い分けています。

BASSEN : Discharge Dyeing
抜染

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A silk screen or stencil is placed over dyed fabric and a glue containing chlorine is applied. This results in the screened areas losing their color, revealing the design. By using a silk screen, this technique can create very thin patterns useful for making small logos and intricate designs.

 

染めた生地の上にシルクスクリーン(もしくは型紙)を当てて塩素を含む糊を置き、その部分の色を抜く事によって柄をつける技法です。シルクスクリーンを使用できるため、細かな柄や小さいロゴなどのデザインが表現できます。

DAN-ZOME : Gradation Dyeing

段染め

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By adjusting the time a piece is left in dye or by changing the number of dye applications, various levels of color concentration can be achieved in a single piece of fabric. This method can be used to create a color gradation from white to deep indigo.

 

液に浸す時間や回数を調整し、1枚に色濃度の変化をつける技法です。白から濃い藍色へのグラデーションも可能です。

BETA-ZOME : Plane Dyeing

ベタ染め

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A method of dyeing that does not include any kind of pattern application. Plane Dyeing can produce a multitude of results based on different dyes, dye oxidation methods, materials, sizes and shapes, handling techniques while fabric is submerged in dye, and the technique used to raise fabric out of dye. Many of BUAISOU’s products are made using this method.

 

模様のない無地に染める技法です。染色物の素材やサイズ、形に合わせて、液中での揉み具合、引き上げ方、酸化方法は常に変化します。BUAISOUの製品の多くがベタ染めで仕上げています。